Smoked brisket taco at Antique Taco in Bridgeport

I’ve lived in Chicago for almost 25 years, and while it’s difficult to find a taco I’d flatly call bad, the bar is set high for a truly standout, superior version of the portable classic. At Antique Taco in Bridgeport, the smoked brisket taco is a must-order.

Brisket isn’t usually something I seek out. Elsewhere, this cut can be greasy, sometimes unpleasantly chewy—but at Antique Taco, it melts in my mouth. The locally sourced brisket is seasoned with an in-house dry rub and smoked for 12 hours, creating just the right amount of fatty gloss on the tiny, trimmed pieces. Beyond the spicy, savory meat in this overstuffed pocket from heaven, I find eternal romance as onions, cilantro, and both yellow and orange cheeses mingle in the hearty shell for perfect, uniform bites.

Smoked brisket taco at Antique Taco in Bridgeport Credit: cori nakamura lin | onibaba studio

This taco—available only at Antique Taco’s Bridgeport location—was invented as an ode to the classic south-side speciality, a traditional Polish sausage. Instead of mustard, Antique Taco prepares a special habanero “beware sauce” that proportionally grabs the tongue. The fiery blast of flavor doesn’t overwhelm, particularly if it’s accompanied by a rosemary margarita to wash it down. A single taco eats like a meal, but if I’m extra hungry, I’ll get two. If I order three, I’m rubbing my belly contemplating my reckless life choices. 

I also enjoy Bridgeport’s all-season outdoor dining area, kitschy as it is, surrounded by an Airstream, an overturned canoe on a stand, a rusted pickup truck, and rows of fresh green planters for a private, cozy feel. Just less than a mile west of Guaranteed Rate Field, the crowd is less baseball fan and more hipster chic. I dine in style knowing I’m mingling with those in the know about the most fire taco in Chicago right now.